1 Posted: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 9:01 PM

Hi all,

First post here (so yay).

I'm onto my 4th brew soon. I've completed Lager (kit = 2/10), Irish Stout (5/10) and a super Cooper's IPA using Safale US-05 yeast which I then dry hopped (post fermentation) for 4 days with 80g Citra and 40g Amarillo (6.5/10).

And now, well, I'm after more, more more!

What I would like is an (extract only) double IPA. But I have no idea on how to go about achieving this!?! While I could load up on dextrose for ABV it would make for a shitty beer.

I've searched to no avail for others who may have tried this.

PS - likely dry hopping this to the wazoo with Mosiac, because.

2 Posted: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 11:36 PM

Okay so I'm thinking

Wort:

  • TC IPA Brew A IPA (3.4kg)
    TC Light Malt Extract (1.5kg)
    Light Dry Malt (1kg)
    Dextrose (1kg)
    Wyeast 1056 x 3

Primary Fermentation:
  • 120g Mosiac

Is this a recipe for success?

3 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 7:49 AM

Welcome to the forum Big Man.

Dextrose isn't evil, it is all about balance. Too much malt extract can leave the beer finishing with a high gravity so dextrose can help dry it out a little.

The recipe you listed in 23 litres would give you an OG of 1097. Is that what you were aiming for?

I wouldn't be scared to increase the dextrose and reduce the LDM so it isn't so chewy. As it is you may struggle to get it below 1020.

When I made extract IPAs, I used to use a less bitter kit like the Draught and then do a hop boil and get some extra bitterness from late hopping.

4 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 7:56 AM

The Brew A can is nice and will give you bittering hops, but won't be extract only. If you stick with that I'd still be wanting flavour hops. Maybe 20-30g centennial (or chinook, or cascade, or another American hop you like) for 20-30 min boil (in about 5 litres of water with the LDM). Then I'd probably add another 20g centennial plus 20g of the mosaic amd steep for 20-30 mins. Then I'd dry hop with the remaining 100g mosaic.

If you want extract, maybe replace the brew a can with a can of the Amber malt extract, but then you'll need decent whack of bittering hops for a longer boil.

5 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 2:54 PM

That's helpful. Thank you, Hairy.

I'm okay with 1097, though as Farls has indicated bitterness or lack thereof might be a problem. I'd prefer not to boil/cool hops and LDM if I can get away with it.

Out of interest: How did you come up with that OG? I had a look at Beer Smith 2 but that only seemed to have data for partial grain or all grain?

6 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 3:36 PM

Hey big man if you are after a DIPA style, you will have to boil hops to add extra bitterness to match the style. The can won't be enough. I've done the coopers brew a kit a few times and it is a good kit for an IPA. But you will have to tinker to get it to DIPA Territory and not have it finish at 1.025 and to get the bitterness

7 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 4:05 PM

3 years ago
I made a 2x Draught kit with late hopping… 100grams of simcoe.
I wanted to taste this hop so I did as follows. But the 2x drought cans was a tad to bitter with the two drought tins! could have bettered with 50g dry hops… but not dry hopping it now. LOL

2 x 1.7kg Coopers Draught
1kg LDME
250 grams light crystal grain. 45min steep.
250 grams wheat grain. 45min steep.
100 grams torrified wheat. 45min steep.

30g simcoe @ 10 minutes
20g simcoe @ 5 minutes
20g simcoe @ 1 minutes
30g simcoe @ 30 min steep @70degress

35 litres
Yeast - 3 x kit yeasts finished well

Was vary bitter

8 Posted: Thursday, September 07, 2017 6:25 PM

Did this one a few brews back:

Triple C IPA
Coopers Lager can
Coopers LLME can
500g LDME
White sugar 400g
Cararye 200g
Chinook 35g 20minutes
Citra 40g 10 minutes
IBUs 55
OG 1.059
FG 1.010
6.4%ABV
1.4 litre starter of West Yorky 1469
Day 5 : Dry hopped
Citra 40g
Cascade 25g
Chinook 25g
Kegged 13/8/17
14/8/17 keg hopped 35 g each of Citra and Cascade

Bloody lovely!!

You could sub the Mosaic for the Cascade on the dry hop.
Also could use caramalt instead of cararye..?
If you want more IPA bitterness then boil the Bittering hops for a bit longer (Chinook 40 mins).
You should probably pitch 2 x 11g packets of yeast if your not making starters yet etc..
Check out Ian H xl spreadsheet, it is really good for designing beers etc

Cheers

James

9 Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 12:58 PM

Big Man:

Out of interest: How did you come up with that OG? I had a look at Beer Smith 2 but that only seemed to have data for partial grain or all grain?


Head over to Aussiehomebrewers and download IanH spreadsheet, you'll need to register first. Nice 10%'er




Cheers,
Hoppy

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10 Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 1:47 PM

Hey Hoppy,

Have you done that brew already, if so how was it?

Cheers

James

11 Posted: Friday, September 08, 2017 2:56 PM

James Lao:

Hey Hoppy,

Have you done that brew already, if so how was it?

Cheers

James


Hey James,

No mate, i was just showing Big Man the sheet and his recipe


Cheers,
Hoppy

12 Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2017 2:31 PM

Based on the stella input from y'all I modified things a bit and have.

Balls Out Double IPA
25min boil with:

  • 1kg Dex
  • 1kg LDM
  • 30g mosaic

Added the following for a 20min steep
  • 1.5kg TC Malt
  • 3.4kg TC IPA Extract
  • 90g Mosaic

Into the fermenter and topped up to 23lt at 18° with 4 x 1028 Whyeast and I will dry hop with 80g Mosaic 3-4 days for bottling.

For some reason my OG was higher than had been suggested by Hairy. OG = 1.13

Hopefully I can get this down to somewhere around 1.020?!?

Thanks gents.

13 Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2017 4:43 PM

Well F.Me that is one HUGE brew.
Hopefully it works out okay, would have cost a bit.

14 Posted: Thursday, September 21, 2017 8:09 PM

Big Man:

Based on the stella input from y'all I modified things a bit and have.

Balls Out Double IPA
25min boil with:

  • 1kg Dex
  • 1kg LDM
  • 30g mosaic

Added the following for a 20min steep
  • 1.5kg TC Malt
  • 3.4kg TC IPA Extract
  • 90g Mosaic

Into the fermenter and topped up to 23lt at 18° with 4 x 1028 Whyeast and I will dry hop with 80g Mosaic 3-4 days for bottling.

For some reason my OG was higher than had been suggested by Hairy. OG = 1.13

Hopefully I can get this down to somewhere around 1.020?!?

Thanks gents.

You may find it was an incorrect reading. You can fairly accurately predict the OG with extract brewing and Hoppy had the same OG estimate that I did.

Hopefully you get it down to at least 1020.

So did you pitch 4 packets of Wyeast yeast? That would have cost a fortune alone. Have you tried making a starter before? You can cut down on the amount of yeast you need to buy that way.

I like Mosaic. Hopefully it turns out a nice beer for you. Good luck with it.

15 Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 8:06 PM

UPDATE.

I am at 1.023 which I'm really happy with but …

It is not clear, at all! Yeast (or protein?) has not fallen out of suspension and the entire brew is covered in either yeast or trub on top. I'm waiting to ensure primary fermentation has finished, which I suspect it has after 10 days.

How should I clear this brew up before dry-hopping. Should I cold crash or add Isinglass or both or something else? If I cold crash or rack to secondary will my yeast still be able to bottle condition and carbonate?

Help appreciated.

BTW, those 4 packets of yeast I was only charged for 1. But being the honest bloke I am a paid for them the others next time I went in. They did cost a significant amount. Without adding up the actual receipts, my guess would be the total for this brew is somewhere around the $120-$140 dollar range. Time to get my BIAB happening and yeast starters!

16 Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 8:58 PM

3V set ups give better options in my opinion as you can make big brews 50 litres+ in the same time!
Plus better control and less fuss
Personally ide never use BIAB unless I lived in a shoebox

Yeast starters are a must for big beers… dry finishing yeasts made with decent yeast starters are a must for 6 ABV+ brews

17 Posted: Monday, September 25, 2017 9:31 PM

Waylon:

3V set ups give better options in my opinion as you can make big brews 50 litres+ in the same time!
Plus better control and less fuss
Personally ide never use BIAB unless I lived in a shoebox

Yeast starters are a must for big beers… dry finishing yeasts made with decent yeast starters are a must for 6 ABV+ brews


I won't disagree with you about 3V set ups. For me it's about cash flow and the ability to scale over time. A quality, high volume vessel for BIAB now can become my HLT later.

I'm not rich and I'm here for a long time not a short time.

What worries me more right now is the stuff floating in my brew!

18 Posted: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:24 AM

Let it warm up a few degrees and see if that helps.
When you are sure it is finished, set to cold crash and throw in the dry hop.

19 Posted: Thursday, January 11, 2018 6:48 PM

So I've slowly been working my way through drinking this batch of a very big ballsy beer.

It's come out a lot darker than I would have liked (deep brown) and I would have doubled the hops used in secondary. As some have suggested to me, it's almost a barleywine. which is not an entirely bad thing for drinking purposes but not at all what I was trying to brew!

Nevertheless, very happy.

20 Posted: Thursday, January 11, 2018 7:19 PM

He'll man that's one big ass brew!! Not confident in my ingredients enough yet to step straight into that but I'm inspired! I've got a very tame apa in the fv with some malt and galaxy, next is an inkeepers daughter sparkling with a six-pack starter and a few sorts, keen to get bold enough to go something like this!

Awesome work, don't mind a barley wine either!! Curious about clarifying on a brew like this too