1 Posted: Friday, March 17, 2017 4:23 PM

Hi all,

First time for me using 1469 on my Ghost Ship inspired pale ale.
Brewed at the same time as an ESB using Nottingham.
The Notty dropped like a stone, cleared up as normal (OG 1.058 / FG 1.009)
The 1469's Krausen was still like a thick milkshake on top ( OG 1.058 / FG 1.011)
I had to get them into the bottle as I am back to work on Tuesday, so I gave the side of the FV a fair few taps.
This got the krausen starting to break up and fall down , so I repeated this over the the next few hours.
It appeared to be working, but after 3-4 hours the krausen was back to being 30mm thick!
Moving the FV into the kitchen broke up the krausen a bit and I continued on bottling last night.
This morning I checked the bottles and sediment is more than I have had on any of my other brews.
Probably almost up to the full height of the indent things at the bottom of the bottles!
Was wondering if anyone has experienced this before with 1469?
At the end of bottling both brews the Notty FV only had a bit of a krausen mark and the usual trub at the bottom.
The 1469 FV had thick milk shake like marks all down the side and had a lot more trub?
Was wondering if this was normal?
I have had a similar persistent krausen before with US05, but don't remember it being this bad.
Both brews smelled and tasted really good, I have read that 1469 can be a bit of a lingerer, but this was ridiculous!



2 Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 7:10 AM

James - What you described with your experience with 1469 is what I get and I've used it several times. Yes, it is one stubborn thick yeast that takes a fair bit of cold crashing to drop out. At the moment I have an APA brewed on 1272 and a TTLA clone brewed with 1469 in the brew fridge. The 1469 brew has spewed out the top of the fermenter this time and made a bloody mess in the bottom of the fridge.

I've lifted my temperature up this time to between 19.7 to 20 for primary fermentation and finish off with 21.7 to 22. The reason I did this is that I read and I think it was on the Wyeast site about 1272 that higher fermentation temps can help bring out the hop flavours better and that temp with the 1469 I think will also bring out some more esters.

The last 1469 brew I kept the yeast cake and split it into 3 so I actually used a third of a yeast cake in this brew which was probably a massive over pitch. Anyway this is the first time I've had 1469 hitting the bottom of my fridge so in future I'm going to have to change my current process somewhat. In the past the krausen has come pretty close to hitting the top of the Coopers fermenter. I do 24 to 24.5 litre batches. I can't use a krausen collar as I have to fit 2 fermenters in the fridge, one above the other. Having said this, I won't be moving off 1469 anytime soon as I love what it brings to a beer.

3 Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 9:47 AM

Cheers for the reply.
Good to know it is normal then.
The smell and taste from the 1469 brew was really, really good.
Maybe I will start experimenting with cold crashing.
Was wary of cold crashing because I didn't want to extend the time it took to carbonate the beer in the bottles.
How long do you cold crash for?

Just been given the green light to get the Keg King kegerator next payday!!
With keg set up I think you can fast carbonate the beer etc

More reading on keg set ups required I think.



4 Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2017 12:28 PM

I cold crash for 1 week at 0º to 0.3ºC. I usually come down to around 3º first and hold overnight until the next stage to 0º, just so I don't over shoot on the downside. I don't want any ice floating in the top of my brew. Having said that the freezing temp for beer will probably be a few degrees below zero anyway. If you are bottling then I don't think it is a good idea to be taking your yeast down below zero. I don't think you get any of the off flavours associated with keeping beer on the yeast cake for extended periods when the temperature is so low.

As for force carbing I hit my cold kegs (approx 0ºC) at 50 psi and rock them about 50 times and then let sit on 50psi for a few hours with the gas disconnected, then reconnect gas and set to 12 psi, and I find I can drink them straight away if needed. There is info on the NHB site about fast carbing. I always keep my kegs cold and on gas until consumed. They are never stored at room temp and off gas.

Otto has a good thread on here, I think it is titled “Its Kegging Time”. Some useful stuff in there as I remember.

5 Posted: Sunday, March 19, 2017 9:54 PM

It happens to me when I use it too, even cold crashing doesn't drop the damn thing down by itself.. it only breaks up and drops down when I gently stir the beer when I add the isinglass.

I've noticed similar behaviour from 1272 as well but not quite as bad.

As for carbing kegs I don't use that super fast method anymore, I found it too hit and miss. I just sit them on 45 PSI for about 22 hours then disconnect the gas and leave them sit for another few hours or more, then hook them up at serving pressure. They're usually slightly undercarbed at this point but another day on serving pressure sees them right. Note: I put them in the fridge at room temp, so they're being gassed while chilling down rather than being pre-chilled. Unfortunately I don't have a third fridge for storing full kegs so while they're kegged cold, they do warm back up while they wait to be carbed and tapped.

Last edited by Otto Von Blotto (Sunday, March 19, 2017 9:54 PM)