1 Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2016 8:55 AM

G'day all, my first post on the forum but I read often for recipes, tips and just to read about beer.

I'm after recipes to use up left over brewing ingredients, moving house soonish so clearing out and taking a break from brewing for a while (until I get renos done and new man space set up).

Here's what I have:
Coops Eng Bitter can
Coops Real Ale can
500g light dry malt
1kg dextrose
150g crystal malt grain
300g black malt grain
300g midnight wheat grain
80g Amarillo
25g Mosaic
25g Nelson Sauvin
S-04 yeast (must be old as I have no idea when i bought it, but was in the freezer)

My brewing basically consists of base can/base extract, plus grain & hop additions. Moving to all grain seems inevitable, but not yet.

I like and will brew any style of beer, especially anything hoppy. Some off the Coops site that I really like are the Chubby Cherub, Midnight Mosaic, Black Pils and SMOTY.

So, recipe ideas to use up the ingredients above would be much appreciated. The idea is to not buy more, but if I have to…

Whoever's ideas sound best will be awarded the Title of the Champion of the Universe.

Cheers
Farls

2 Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2016 10:51 AM

Farls:

Whoever's ideas sound best will be awarded the Title of the Champion of the Universe.


I like your style.

My submission is to get some more malt (500g might do it, or perhaps a whole 1.5kg tin of LME) and turn the Real Ale into an IPA …

1.7kg Real Ale
1.0kg DME or 1.5kg LME
150g Crystal
Some Amarillo @20-30ish
Some Amarillo @0-10ish
Nelson and Mosaic dry hopped

Use IanH's spreadsheet to figure out how you'd like to balance the hop additions. As for the yeast, be careful with the S04. I'm not sure what effect freezing will have on it, but it's got a bit of a reputation for not finishing properly. Perhaps use Nottingham instead?

3 Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2016 1:34 PM

Definitely the winning submission so far Mr King Ruddager.

I was thinking pretty much the same on making real ale more of an IPA, hops are suited. Would dropping the overall volume to around 18-19 litres have a similar effect as getting the extra dry malt? I can certainly grab some, but I have a strange affliction where any time I go to buy one or two needed ingredients I come back with several. It's a curse that forces me to continually brew more, and consequentially drink more. A vicious cycle.

Agreed on the S 04, if it's not already well passed prime it is probably better suited to EB can anyway. And he's the odd man out with my hops. Can certainly do a basic EB with the crystal, dry malt and dextrose, but won't be anything special. Could add molasses for a bit more smoothness but still basic.

Cheers for the tips, we'll see if there's any other title contenders.

Farls

4 Posted: Sunday, January 03, 2016 1:50 PM

IPAs are supposed to have a fairly high starting gravity, but if you did drop it to 18L you'd begin with ~1.041, and 15L would give ~1.050. At this point though you're going to have to be careful about adding too much extra bitterness, so I would only add hops at 5 minutes and dry hopped, and adjust the amounts accordingly.

Whether it would turn out ok though I wouldn't know - I've never tried such a thing myself.

5 Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 9:49 AM

Cheers King R, I didn't know that about gravity and bittering so will follow your original advice.

No other contenders, so you now officially hold the Title of the Champion of the Universe. Well done sir, well done.

6 Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 11:18 AM

Sounds like I need to update my name …

7 Posted: Monday, January 04, 2016 2:18 PM

Ruddager, Champion of the Universe:

Sounds like I need to update my name …


Your Kingship, always so modest.

8 Posted: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:51 AM

King Ruddager:

Farls:

Whoever's ideas sound best will be awarded the Title of the Champion of the Universe.


I like your style.

My submission is to get some more malt (500g might do it, or perhaps a whole 1.5kg tin of LME) and turn the Real Ale into an IPA …

1.7kg Real Ale
1.0kg DME or 1.5kg LME
150g Crystal
Some Amarillo @20-30ish
Some Amarillo @0-10ish
Nelson and Mosaic dry hopped

Use IanH's spreadsheet to figure out how you'd like to balance the hop additions. As for the yeast, be careful with the S04. I'm not sure what effect freezing will have on it, but it's got a bit of a reputation for not finishing properly. Perhaps use Nottingham instead?


How did this turn out?? im curious as ive got a Real ale can here and trying to work out where to go with it..

9 Posted: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:08 PM

Hi there Del,

The Real Ale can is quite bitter already and not the best choice to use as a base for an IPA; however, suit yourself. IMHO you don't want to make it more bitter by boiling hops. You can add a modest amount of hops at flame out and steep them, but for no more than twenty minutes. You can dry hop later too; I'd wait with adding the dry hops until three days before you plan to bottle and keep the amounts low. Amarillo and Mosaic should be nice together.

Using Nottingham will help tame the bitterness.

I would just add 1.5kg of light LME and skip the crystal malt. The Real Ale kit contains crystal malts already.

Cheers,

Christina.

10 Posted: Wednesday, September 13, 2017 1:38 PM

Christina - The Real Ale can is quite bitter already and not the best choice to use as a base for an IPA; however, suit yourself. IMHO you don't want to make it more bitter by boiling hops. You can add a modest amount of hops at flame out and steep them, but for no more than twenty minutes. You can dry hop later too; I'd wait with adding the dry hops until three days before you plan to bottle and keep the amounts low. Amarillo and Mosaic should be nice together.


Don't mean to hijack Farls but..

Can I ask a couple Q's!!

You say don't steep for more than 20mins, is there a reason for this? Does it change the hop profile? Is it just a waste of time?

And I have read a few times not to dry hop 3 days before Bottling. Previously I have seen for best hop utilization its best to dry hop towards the end of primary fermentation (Day 4 for me). I just tend to leave the brew for another week ‘just in case’ a bottle blows up in my 18 months old cupboard / beer storage. Is there a better retention of aroma by bottling within 3 days of dry hopping?

Cheers

Biggie!

11 Posted: Wednesday, September 13, 2017 8 PM

Old thread, and I can't really remember the beer to be honest Del. However…

…my brewing notes from then tell me I did chuck in 100g midnight wheat grain for the steep, and dry hopped only with mosaic, not the Nelson too. Otherwise I followed KRs advice.

And the notes tell me the result was average early on, but after about 6 weeks in the bottle it was pretty good, much nicer than I expected for a ‘left overs’ recipe.

Biggie, hijack away mate. I'll let Christina answer your questions, I've picked up a heap of helpful info from reading her posts over time. Ditto KR. And Otto. And PB2. And Lusty. And Scottie. And… and… and…

…too many to mention.

12 Posted: Friday, September 15, 2017 2:29 PM

Farls:

Old thread, and I can't really remember the beer to be honest Del. However…

…my brewing notes from then tell me I did chuck in 100g midnight wheat grain for the steep, and dry hopped only with mosaic, not the Nelson too. Otherwise I followed KRs advice.

And the notes tell me the result was average early on, but after about 6 weeks in the bottle it was pretty good, much nicer than I expected for a ‘left overs’ recipe.

Biggie, hijack away mate. I'll let Christina answer your questions, I've picked up a heap of helpful info from reading her posts over time. Ditto KR. And Otto. And PB2. And Lusty. And Scottie. And… and… and…

…too many to mention.


Haha I hear ya, great bunch of wisdom on this here forum :)

Last edited by Biggie Brewer (Friday, September 15, 2017 2:29 PM)